August 27 - Mizpah Hut (Day 161 – milepoint 1820.6)

Felt much stronger today. Not sure why. Need to start paying closer attention to the mix of food, water, sleep, and miles.

Made it to Mizpah Hut just before the rain and early enough to take advantage of the work-for-stay option. Ended up on “evening entertainment duty” again, along with Church Mouse. Full house tonight.

Aquaholic

August 26 - Ethan Pond Shelter (Day 160 – milepoint 1814.0)

Helped the Galehead Hut Crew with morning chores and said goodbye to Jim and Roaming Gnome.

Some of the views today had me thinking of the scenery in the movie, Braveheart. Breathtaking, really.

My body was tired and I yawned a lot while hiking today. After only 11 miles, I was very much ready to call it a day. My decision was made less complicated by the beauty of Ethan Pond. Joined here in the shelter by Lej and Easy Walker.

Aquaholic

August 25 - Galehead Hut (Day 159 – milepoint 1799.9)

A rare, unsuccessful hitch in the morning forced me to walk the two-or-so miles from Loon Mountain to North Woodstock for my
maildrop. I know, “2-miles-walking-big-deal-that’s-what-you-do-you-walk.” But I knew I had about 13 Trail miles planned for the day, which involved a lot of UP. And besides, walking along a busy road, for lack of a better term, SUCKS!

Full load of food and the return of my winter clothing has my pack feeling heavy again. I got a ride back up to the trail crossing at Franconia Notch from an ’89 thru-hiker, “M&M Ken.” He said he took only two days off on his entire thru-hike. I told him that yesterday was my 31st. He laughed and we exchanged a few highlights. M&M Ken - good fella.

Nice day and after the initial 4,000 foot climb to Franconia Ridge, I had outstanding views of the White Mountains all day. Met up with LandShark on top of Mount Lincoln and we made our way to Galehead Hut where his cousin, Jim, has been working all summer. As I walked in, I was shocked to see Roaming Gnome standing there. Haven’t seen him since Fontana Dam, North Carolina! So we played catch-up – he’s working as part of the hut crew, what a cool job – and they fed us really well.

LandShark, Watergirl, Spice Boy, and I ended up being evening entertainment for the hut guests, answering questions and sharing stories about our trips. I could get used to the AMC hut experience.

Aquaholic

August 24 - Loon Mountain Hostel (Day 158)

Slept until noon. That was weird. Did nothing all day. That was weird, too.

Aquaholic

August 23 - Franconia Notch, Loon Mountain Hostel (Day 157 – milepoint 1781.0)

Tough terrain this morning forced me to periodically strap my poles to my pack and scramble on all fours for a couple of hours.

Unfortunately, heavy fog at higher elevations still looms, so no views, but I dropped down to Lonesome Lake and was rewarded with the beauty of the lake and surrounding area. At this point, I realized I wasn’t going to make it to the post office in North Woodstock
before it closed at noon (today is Saturday). I would have to wait until Monday, which is a bit of a bummer. I’d hoped to avoid spending money if I could help it. I was also not looking forward to what I had heard was a very difficult hitch into town. Much of the traffic along the road is made up of tourists, who are typically far less apt to pick up hitchhikers than locals.

But as I emerged from the woods and up to the road at Franconia Notch, a bus driving by honked at me and pulled over. The driver, Sam, invited me in and informed me he was heading back to Loon Mountain Ski Resort, where he works, and that I could stay at the hostel there if I would like. I thought that sounded great.

Sam also informed me of a concert at the resort tonight and that I could work at the show in exchange for my stay at the hostel. That also sounded like a good deal to me. I asked him, “Who’s playing the concert?”

“Big Head Todd and Ziggy Marley.” he proclaimed.

That sounded good to me.

Sam dropped me at the hostel where I was provided a room with shower and laundry access. I was eventually joined by Lej, Silence, and Easy Walker and we all walked over to the base of the ski resort at around 4:00 to report for “concert-duty.” Our hostel and concert host was Steve Shaberman, who put us to work in the concession area – pizza, burgers, hot dogs, chips, fries, ice cream, soda, etc. – and said we could eat “as much as we would like.”

We put Silence on pizza duty. Lej and Easy Walker were given security t-shirts and stood near a fence to keep people from sneaking in without tickets. They had a great view of the stage and, of course, we made sure they were well-fed and thirst-free all evening.

Steve made me sort of the “hiker-crew-leader,” which was something like a glorified gopher wandering around looking busy but really not doing much. Met Ziggy and Steven Marley before the show (I’m sure I made a powerful impression) and eventually ended up walking around the concert with boxes of ice cream bars. I even sold a few.

Big Head Todd and the Monsters were excellent as usual, and Ziggy Marley and the Melody Makers were far better than I expected. PakaBear, Chewy, Cosmo, and LandShark showed up during the show in disbelief about our luck. We made sure they didn’t leave hungry. Outstanding show, to say the least, and Steve took great care of us all.

Now back at the hostel, a little after midnight, happy and comfy. Wondering what to do tomorrow.

Aquaholic

August 22 - Eliza Brook Shelter (Day 156 – milepoint 1778.3)

Chris had to make his way back to West Virginia for the weekend so we grabbed an early breakfast and he dropped me back at the shelter where he found me.

A humbling day of hiking. Only 16 miles but this is not Pennsylvania any more. 4,000-foot ascent to the summit of Mount Moosilauke, above tree-line. I was hoping for a good view but, alas, yesterday’s rain had the air all fogged up. Beautiful descent down the back side, however, following Beaver Brook cascading its way down a steep gorge.

Kinsman Notch: enter (officially) White Mountain National Forest and the pain of humility yet again. I wanted to try for an another 11 miles, but, after the last brutal 6 miles, I arrived at Eliza Brook and kissed the shelter floor. Beat, ragged, but happy to be here and
comfy after a c-c-cold bath in the brook.

Just me here and two very bold little chipmunks. Can’t remember the last time I thought a chipmunk would taste good with red beans and rice…or between two strawberry Poptarts…

Aquaholic

August 21 - North Woodstock, NH (Day 155 – milepoint 1762.4)

Got an early start in the pouring rain, but was rewarded with the sighting of a Mama moose and her calf. What impressive animals.

Walked through an extremely intense storm with sideways rain and tree branches falling out of the sky all around me. It is baffling that none struck me. Just baffling.

Arrived at Jeffers Brook Shelter for a short break to fuel up for the big 4,000-foot climb up Mount Moosilauke. As I was cleaning my pot, I spotted a day hiker walking up to the shelter. Double-take, triple-take: My God, it’s the Hairy Italian, Chris Esposito. I was stunned and could not believe he was standing there. Big hug and “What are you doing here?”

He was interviewing for a winter ski-patrol job at Mount Snow in Vermont, has a day to kill, and drove up to find me after calling my family to find out my approximate whereabouts. Once up here, he got directions to the nearest shelter and figured he would check the register and see if any thru-hikers knew where I was. And there I was. Kinda gives you the willies.

Much to my unexpected good fortune, I was able to spend the rest of the day out of the rain with a very good buddy. We went
to North Woodstock, I sprang for a couple of bunks at the Bed and Breakfast, and we spent the rest of the day catching up on things.

Micro-brewery right next door to the B&B. Caught a movie in the evening. Smiles joined us. Saw Conspricay Theory. Have I become easily entertained or are there some really good movies out this year? Maybe a little bit of both. Anyway, I’ve had to finish this entry on 8/22 since Chris and I were up so late trading stories. What a great friend.

Aquaholic

August 20 - “Atwell Hilton” (Day 154 – milepoint 1753.4)

Five month anniversary! As if last night’s sky show wasn’t enough, this morning’s sunrise brought colorful skies and immediate warmth.

Good energy all day. Spent several hours on Mount Cabe, enjoying the sun. My pale, white chest turned a golden pink.

Arrived at Atwell Hill Road with 12 Bears. We walked down to the “Atwell Hilton” and met famous Trail Angel, Dizzy Bee, who immediately offered a couple of beers and took our picture for her scrapbook. We have been hearing about Dizzy Bee for a long time and it’s neat to finally meet her. She spent the evening with us around a campfire.

Also here are Achilles, Mahatma, Water Girl, Spice Boy, Easy Walker, Lej, Journeyman, and Starlight.

Aquaholic

August 19 - Smarts Mountain (Day 153 – milepoint 1741.5)

Forty degree temps this morning and a fair amount of climbing today. The strenuous ascent to the top of Smarts Mountain was rewarded with an amazing 360-degree view from the fire tower on top. Killington to the West, Mount Washington to the East, and everything in between.

I was tired when I arrived and tried to take a nap but I had a sugar buzz (from some candy sent by mom) that wouldn’t go away. Not too smart. Spice Boy, Achilles, and I have decided to sleep in the fire tower tonight.

A grand sunset was followed by a big bright-orange full-moonrise! The cycle of the moon: 29 days, 12 hours, 44 minutes, and 3 seconds.

Aquaholic

August 18 - North Peak, Moose Mountain (Day 152 – milepoint 1730.0)

Slow getting started this morning but I only had 12 miles planned so I was in no hurry. Joined Silence for lunch at Subway and Ben and Jerry’s and we walked out of town and into the woods a little after noon.

Note: a pint of ice cream is not an ideal source of fuel for a day’s hike.

We ran into Achilles hiking with is father, now Mahatma (formerly, John). They’re down at the shelter a mile back. I’m joined by Silence and Lej on top of the mountain with a good view, clear skies, and a waning full moon.

They say when you get to Hanover, “You’ve covered about 80% of the distance, but only 50% of the effort.” From what I understand
about New Hampshire and Maine, the extra effort will be worth it.

Aquaholic