September 6 - Grafton Notch (Day 171 – milepoint 1892.6)

“Every year we come out for a week after Labor Day to escape the fast pace and enjoy some peace and quiet.”

One of the New Jersey cops at Full Goose Shelter said that to me last night. As I walked today, I was thinking about the irony of it. “Escape” … “peace and quiet” … I guess it’s another lesson in perspective. They made quite a ruckus with each other – not the kind of energy I’ve grown accustomed to from people out here – and talked only of their jobs all evening. Nothing about where we were and what we were experiencing in the moment. I never heard anything about how nice a day yesterday was (it was!) or about any neat things they’ve seen or done while hiking in the past four days.

It was weird, a part of me was angry with them. I felt like they were intruders in my home…I felt vigilant, protective of the space we shared, like if I didn’t keep a close eye on these guys that something sacred would end up severely abused. This is a new thing for me, to be critical of other people’s energy in the woods. It would be unrealistic to expect them to feel what I feel out here, and though many very intelligent and highly perceptive people would argue with me about this, I’m not quite perfect myself. So I guess I’ll just hope that by the end of the week they come away with more of an understanding and appreciation for what it really is to be a part of the solitude.

Cosmo mentioned that it would take a lot more than a week for those guys to really “escape.” In a better light, though, we agreed they were positively entertaining, we gave them credit for choosing a week of hiking on the AT in Maine over the infinity of alternative choices available to them, and behind the chaos they were a bunch of pretty good fellas…just like us. So, moving on.

A very difficult but entertaining day. The one mile through Mahoosuc Notch took almost two hours. A natural playground of boulders and trees, Mahoosuc Notch is often described as “Nature’s Jungle Gym.” Our own Indiana Jones adventure, minus the bad guys, or as Achilles put it, “It’s like IMAX…only better…except no popcorn.” Lots of tight squeezes. Knee pads would have been nice. The effort through the Notch took far more out of me than the typical mile and I was quite happy to call it a day after only 10 miles.

Grafton Notch: Enter David E. Risner, college roommate, stud… Dave left from Chicago yesterday to join me for a week of hiking. His timing could not have been more perfect as he pulled into the trailhead parking lot (after 1,028 miles of driving) at exactly the same time as I emerged from the woods (after 1,892 miles of walking).

We’re now in the Andover Guest House with Achilles, Cosmo, Paka Bear, Redwood, and Blue Bud. I’ll be going through Dave’s pack in the morning to remove all of the things he thinks he needs, but doesn’t.

Aquaholic

September 5 - Full Goose Shelter (Day 170 – milepoint 1882.7)

An ideal day for the outdoors – not a cloud in the sky…clear, crisp, dry air as far as you can see.

We took a lot of breaks to enjoy the weather and the excellent views until we arrived at the state line and a sign reading: “Welcome to Maine – The way life should be.”

Chewy, in his signature form: “Well, that’s Georgia to Maine – Does this mean I can go home now?”

Cosmo and I arrived here at the shelter just before dark and are joined by a bunch of semi-rowdy police officers from New Jersey (exit 82).

Achilles and Redwood are camped out on platforms nearby. Paka, Chewy, Spice, Huff, and Puff didn’t make it to the shelter. Last I saw them, Paka was leading, so there’s no telling… Looking forward to Mahoosuc Notch tomorrow and to being joined by college roommate, Dave Risner, for a week.

Feels good to be in Maine.

Aquaholic

September 4 - Camping somewhere near Maine (Day 169 – milepoint 1868.5)

Wasted a lot of time in town this morning eating and doing nothing before Bruno drove Cosmo, Paka Bear, and I to the trailhead.

Got to hiking around 3 p.m. and meandered seven-or-so miles, finally making camp in the woods before dark. Also here are Chewy and Spice.

Maine tomorrow!

Aquaholic

September 3 – Hiker’s Paradise (Day 168)

Another day off. Knees still feeling the ache from the White Mountains.

Paka, Cosmo, Chewy, Puff and I hitched a ride to Bethel (Maine), 20 miles away, with a nice lady named Rolanda to see a movie. We arrived to find the theater closed, and, much to our dismay, Rolanda had already driven away. So we went for a walk around the small town of Bethel for a bit and almost rented a U-Haul truck so we could drive to the coast for lobster. Too expensive, so we walked back out to the road and hitched back to the Hiker’s Paradise and Gorham.

Achilles slept all day.

Aquaholic

September 2 - Hiker’s Paradise (Day 167)

Day off. Huff and Puff rented a car and we (Huff, Puff, Paka, Chewy, Achilles, and Cosmo) went to North Conway, 30 miles
away, to take care of some issues. High marks go out to EMS Outfitters. Excellent customer service.

Chewy got a new backpack (his original one fell apart).

Achilles: new boots (his 5th pair).

Paka: a new Leki pole and water bag.

Puff got a new tent.

I’ve acquired my 4th pair of boots.

Dinner at a Pizza Hut with a juke box.

Aquaholic

September 1 - Gorham, NH (Day 166 – milepoint 1860.9)

Paka and I were able to work for a little while this morning in exchange for our night stay in the Hut. Latane, the hut caretaker, had us scrubbing the floors in the bathrooms and we actually enjoyed the chore.

Chewy, Achilles, Cosmo, and Bue Bird all headed out early and, since Paka is very likely the slowest hiker to ever set foot on the AT and doesn’t function well alone, I was forced to slow my pace and keep him company. Lucky for me he’s at least reasonably intelligent and can hold a conversation…

We were eventually joined by Puff and we periodically ran into Dragonfly, Woody Pop, and Anapurna throughout the day.

Walking out of the woods onto the road into Gorham gave me an unexpectedly strong feeling of completion. We were all proud and relieved to have made it through the Whites uninjured and in good spirits.

Enter Gorham, NH and the Hikers Paradise Hostel. Ready for some rest. Bruno, owner of the Hiker’s Paradise, greeted us warmly and made us all feel welcome. After he showed us to our rooms, Bruno said we could “buy” bicycles for getting around town. For $1.00, you are handed a bill of sale and allowed to choose from the dozen or so old bicycles in the parking lot behind the building. Cool idea and a convenient way for us to run errands.

Showered…Monday Night Football…beer, food-I-don’t-carry, ice cream…feet up. Paradise, indeed.

Aquaholic

August 31 - Carter Notch Hut (Day 165 – milepoint 1845.9)

Really enjoying the company of these folks I’ve been hiking with for the past couple of months. When they’re around I laugh a lot more and conversation is always interesting. I got ahead of these guys coming into the Whites and spent most of the past week hiking alone. Taking the day off at Lakes of the Clouds allowed folks like Cosmo, Achilles, Paka, Chewy, Huff and Puff,
and Landshark (to name a few) to catch up, and I was really excited to see them again.

A guest at Lakes of the Clouds Hut asked us if we had any “revelations” during our journey. I could not give him a specific answer two days ago, but now I think I would tell him this: Although I think it is important to spend time alone out here for reflection and solitude, we humans are social animals, and the best things in life should be shared, in some capacity, with others. The rewards come in ways you just cannot make up.

Aquaholic

August 30 - Osgood Tentsite (Day 164 – milepoint 1835.4)

Achilles and I summited Mount Washington this morning under a thick blanket of fog, so we didn’t stick around.

Very tough terrain and rough coming down Mount Madison. My knees are sore enough to complain about them.

Joined here at Osgood Tentsite by Achilles, Paka, Chewy, and Jeff, a Harvard graduate student in Landscape Architecture. He is very polite and has not complained once about the smell.

Aquaholic

August 29 - Lakes of the Clouds Hut (Day 163)

Weather sucks. Took the day off.

Turning over today’s journal entry to Paka:

“Paka Bear – self-described as cute, reasonably intelligent, and not as smelly as some hikers I might mention – seeks date for UNC Homecoming Game October 11. Send resume to (x-address) Greensboro, NC 27408. Photo ID required. Applicant must be described by her peers as cute, reasonably intelligent, and not a Republican.”

August 28 - Lakes of the Clouds Hut (Day 162 – milepoint 1825.3)

Helped the Mizpah Croo clean up this morning, then headed out in a heavy fog for a short five-mile day en route to the Lakes of the Clouds Hut.

It’s a shame to be missing some of the views up here in the Presidential Mountains. I know there’s more to appreciate than fog, rocks, and nice-smelling day hikers. It is supposed to be clearing up soon, though, so we’ll see.

The summit of Mount Washington is only a mile away from the hut here, so Lej and I went for a quick climb up to the summit to check things out. Hopped on a pay-phone and got to call Johnny. Damn, I miss him.

Aquaholic