September 10 - Sabbath Day Pond Lean-to (Day 175 – milepoint 1930.0)

The buzz in the shelter last night was about the easy 17 miles to Route 4 and Rangeley, Maine.

Yes, full of optimism was the buzz last night.

Waking to a cold, wet morning, everyone remained in their sleeping bags much longer than normal, and the buzz buzzed to a slightly different tune this morning:

Cosmo: “Did someone mention a shelter at 8 miles?”

Easy Walker: “Yes, but there’s a road to a Bed and Breakfast at 4 miles.”

Achilles (waking up only to roll over): “There’s no way I’m doing 17.”

Safety Inspector: “I’m just starting to notice the smell. Is that me?”

Cosmo: “It’ll pass.”

Easy Walker: “Hey guys, I have some Rum…”

We went 8 miles. Compliments to Maine.

Aquaholic

September 9 - Bemis Mountain Lean-to (Day 174 – milepoint 1921.7)

We wished Redwood a happy 22nd birthday this morning and got to hiking around 9 a.m.

Not an easy day for The Safety Inspector. 13 tough miles and his dogs are really barking. I don’t know if I would have done so well on my third day. In fact, I didn’t. I’ve snuck a few extra things out of his pack and into mine to help lighten his load for the next couple of days.

We saw three Moose today. A Bull, Cow, and Calf standing together right in the middle of the Trail. Wow, those are large animals.

My new boots feel great. No hot spots or anything. I think you get to the point where your feet become so tough that the breaking-in process is no longer a problem. Now my feet are beating the boots up instead of the boots beating my feet up.

We made it to the shelter just before dark…and just before the rain. Also here are Easy Walker, Achilles, Cosmo, Trailvis (heading South after flip-flopping), and two southbounders who have been asleep since we arrived. Paka, Chickenman, Bear, and Redwood are tenting up behind the shelter. Will try to make the next couple of days a little more pleasant for The Safety Inspector. It’s great to have him here.

Aquaholic

September 8 - Hall Mountain Lean-to (Day 173 – milepoint 1908.8)

Not much motivation to write tonight. The Safety Inspector is doing well – everyone feeling safe and secure. Here at the Hall Mountain Lean-to with Cosmo and Redwood.

Aquaholic

September 7 - Andover, ME (Day 172 – milepoint 1902.9)

We slack-packed ten miles today, a good start for Dave, who has become “the Safety Inspector.” He’s doing quite well despite the difficult terrain.

It is always interesting to me to watch my friends from different times and places meet, mingle, and gel. Not surprisingly, The Safety Inspector is gelling quite well with this crew.

Aquaholic

September 6 - Grafton Notch (Day 171 – milepoint 1892.6)

“Every year we come out for a week after Labor Day to escape the fast pace and enjoy some peace and quiet.”

One of the New Jersey cops at Full Goose Shelter said that to me last night. As I walked today, I was thinking about the irony of it. “Escape” … “peace and quiet” … I guess it’s another lesson in perspective. They made quite a ruckus with each other – not the kind of energy I’ve grown accustomed to from people out here – and talked only of their jobs all evening. Nothing about where we were and what we were experiencing in the moment. I never heard anything about how nice a day yesterday was (it was!) or about any neat things they’ve seen or done while hiking in the past four days.

It was weird, a part of me was angry with them. I felt like they were intruders in my home…I felt vigilant, protective of the space we shared, like if I didn’t keep a close eye on these guys that something sacred would end up severely abused. This is a new thing for me, to be critical of other people’s energy in the woods. It would be unrealistic to expect them to feel what I feel out here, and though many very intelligent and highly perceptive people would argue with me about this, I’m not quite perfect myself. So I guess I’ll just hope that by the end of the week they come away with more of an understanding and appreciation for what it really is to be a part of the solitude.

Cosmo mentioned that it would take a lot more than a week for those guys to really “escape.” In a better light, though, we agreed they were positively entertaining, we gave them credit for choosing a week of hiking on the AT in Maine over the infinity of alternative choices available to them, and behind the chaos they were a bunch of pretty good fellas…just like us. So, moving on.

A very difficult but entertaining day. The one mile through Mahoosuc Notch took almost two hours. A natural playground of boulders and trees, Mahoosuc Notch is often described as “Nature’s Jungle Gym.” Our own Indiana Jones adventure, minus the bad guys, or as Achilles put it, “It’s like IMAX…only better…except no popcorn.” Lots of tight squeezes. Knee pads would have been nice. The effort through the Notch took far more out of me than the typical mile and I was quite happy to call it a day after only 10 miles.

Grafton Notch: Enter David E. Risner, college roommate, stud… Dave left from Chicago yesterday to join me for a week of hiking. His timing could not have been more perfect as he pulled into the trailhead parking lot (after 1,028 miles of driving) at exactly the same time as I emerged from the woods (after 1,892 miles of walking).

We’re now in the Andover Guest House with Achilles, Cosmo, Paka Bear, Redwood, and Blue Bud. I’ll be going through Dave’s pack in the morning to remove all of the things he thinks he needs, but doesn’t.

Aquaholic

September 5 - Full Goose Shelter (Day 170 – milepoint 1882.7)

An ideal day for the outdoors – not a cloud in the sky…clear, crisp, dry air as far as you can see.

We took a lot of breaks to enjoy the weather and the excellent views until we arrived at the state line and a sign reading: “Welcome to Maine – The way life should be.”

Chewy, in his signature form: “Well, that’s Georgia to Maine – Does this mean I can go home now?”

Cosmo and I arrived here at the shelter just before dark and are joined by a bunch of semi-rowdy police officers from New Jersey (exit 82).

Achilles and Redwood are camped out on platforms nearby. Paka, Chewy, Spice, Huff, and Puff didn’t make it to the shelter. Last I saw them, Paka was leading, so there’s no telling… Looking forward to Mahoosuc Notch tomorrow and to being joined by college roommate, Dave Risner, for a week.

Feels good to be in Maine.

Aquaholic

September 4 - Camping somewhere near Maine (Day 169 – milepoint 1868.5)

Wasted a lot of time in town this morning eating and doing nothing before Bruno drove Cosmo, Paka Bear, and I to the trailhead.

Got to hiking around 3 p.m. and meandered seven-or-so miles, finally making camp in the woods before dark. Also here are Chewy and Spice.

Maine tomorrow!

Aquaholic

September 3 – Hiker’s Paradise (Day 168)

Another day off. Knees still feeling the ache from the White Mountains.

Paka, Cosmo, Chewy, Puff and I hitched a ride to Bethel (Maine), 20 miles away, with a nice lady named Rolanda to see a movie. We arrived to find the theater closed, and, much to our dismay, Rolanda had already driven away. So we went for a walk around the small town of Bethel for a bit and almost rented a U-Haul truck so we could drive to the coast for lobster. Too expensive, so we walked back out to the road and hitched back to the Hiker’s Paradise and Gorham.

Achilles slept all day.

Aquaholic

September 2 - Hiker’s Paradise (Day 167)

Day off. Huff and Puff rented a car and we (Huff, Puff, Paka, Chewy, Achilles, and Cosmo) went to North Conway, 30 miles
away, to take care of some issues. High marks go out to EMS Outfitters. Excellent customer service.

Chewy got a new backpack (his original one fell apart).

Achilles: new boots (his 5th pair).

Paka: a new Leki pole and water bag.

Puff got a new tent.

I’ve acquired my 4th pair of boots.

Dinner at a Pizza Hut with a juke box.

Aquaholic

September 1 - Gorham, NH (Day 166 – milepoint 1860.9)

Paka and I were able to work for a little while this morning in exchange for our night stay in the Hut. Latane, the hut caretaker, had us scrubbing the floors in the bathrooms and we actually enjoyed the chore.

Chewy, Achilles, Cosmo, and Bue Bird all headed out early and, since Paka is very likely the slowest hiker to ever set foot on the AT and doesn’t function well alone, I was forced to slow my pace and keep him company. Lucky for me he’s at least reasonably intelligent and can hold a conversation…

We were eventually joined by Puff and we periodically ran into Dragonfly, Woody Pop, and Anapurna throughout the day.

Walking out of the woods onto the road into Gorham gave me an unexpectedly strong feeling of completion. We were all proud and relieved to have made it through the Whites uninjured and in good spirits.

Enter Gorham, NH and the Hikers Paradise Hostel. Ready for some rest. Bruno, owner of the Hiker’s Paradise, greeted us warmly and made us all feel welcome. After he showed us to our rooms, Bruno said we could “buy” bicycles for getting around town. For $1.00, you are handed a bill of sale and allowed to choose from the dozen or so old bicycles in the parking lot behind the building. Cool idea and a convenient way for us to run errands.

Showered…Monday Night Football…beer, food-I-don’t-carry, ice cream…feet up. Paradise, indeed.

Aquaholic