August 8 – Manchester Center, VT (Day 142 – milepoint 1624.8)

Up with the sun and got to hiking around 6 a.m. along with Jarvis and Small World. Lunch siesta at Stratton Pond. Went for a swim and watched a mink play along the shore where we sat.

We arrived at the road into the town of Manchester Center and ran into a couple of couples who had been out day-hiking. They offered us rides and Jarvis was the lucky one who rode in the 1934 Chrysler Air Flow, which was in mint condition! The first car to be designed in a wind tunnel.

Walked to the Post Office and then over to the Zion Episcopal Church/Hostel. Jarvis and Small World were picked up by a couple of friends from home who now live in this area. I caught a shower and walked over to a Mexican restaurant to meet Cosmo, Achilles, Paka, Chewy, Spice, Chicken Man, Wrangler, LandShark, and Church Mouse for dinner and for Cosmo‘s official 24th birthday celebration.

Did you know that Vermont State Law prohibits you from having more than one drink in front of you at a time? It’s true. So it just took us a little longer to fully wish Cosmo a Happy Birthday. We continued the party at a local bar and when I left, Wrangler was dancing on a table and Paka was looking for volunteers to help carry Cosmo back to the church.

Aquaholic

June 18 - Harpers Ferry, WV (Day 91 – milepoint 994.7)

George and Mary Sue took our packs into Harpers Ferry so Cheesehead, Walkie Talkie, and I could slackpack the 13 miles in. Solophile and Fireball carried their packs, as any purist would.

We made good time and arrived at the Appalachian Trail Conference Headquarters with the afternoon to browse around, take pictures, read registers, post office, and PIZZA! I was the 252nd thru-hiker to make it to Harper’s Ferry so far this year. Some of the 252 finished at Harpers Ferry, some started there, but most came from GA.

Ran into Bubbles and her friend, Chris, section hikers for now. Bubbles plans a thru-hike in a couple of years. Her trail name aptly fits her personality. She drove Cheesehead and I to the grocery and then to the local Hostel, which was packed with Boy Scouts.

We hung out nearby with Solophile and Fireball in their motel room with beer and ice cream and laughs a plenty, compliments of Cheesehead. Very good dude, an original.

Aquaholic

June 17 - Blackburn AT Center (Day 90 – milepoint 982.5)

a.m. – Have to mention, before I leave this morning, the Trail Magic that happened last night. An ATV pulled up to the shelter out of nowhere and I introduced myself to Scott Haberman and his accompanying chocolate lab retriever, who live up the holler with his wife (Scott’s wife, that is). Apparently, Solophile has her own website where she updates her journal entries and photos and is able to communicate with lots of different folks. (Hey what a great idea!) She and Scott have e-mailed a few times and he came down to say hello. I enjoyed conversation with him while we waited for Solophile and Fireball to arrive. When they did, Scott unhinged the cooler and pack from the ATV and pulled out bottled beer, pizza, fresh fruit, and M&Ms. What an unexpected treat!

Spent most of today with Solophile and Fireball. It was nice to walk with some company for a change. We traded jokes and stories to help pass the hot uphill climbs.

Blackburn AT Center: located in a little holler just off the trail. Two bunkhouses, solar shower, porch with couches and a swing, payphone. Caretakers George and Mary Sue, who got married during their’95 thru-hike, made us a big ole pot of spaghetti, lemonade, and ice cream. Unbelievable!

Saw my first rattlesnake today. Looking forward to Harper’s Ferry tomorrow.

Aquaholic

June 16 - Sam Moore Shelter (Day 89 – milepoint 971.8)

The only other hiker I saw on the trail today was a colorful box turtle.

Made it here to the Sam Moore Shelter early and have decided to stay rather than move on to the Bears Den Hostel, which is supposed to be a cool place, but it costs $$. I need to start being a little more frugal.

Aquaholic

June 15 - Dick’s Dome Shelter (Day 88 – milepoint 956.1)

Eyes still swollen, but getting better.

Bulldog and I had breakfast at the Fox Diner. Three cups of coffee each, neither of us coffee drinkers, and we had some fun making an entry in the visitor register. The place-mats at each table were Hillbilly Vocabulary guides and we tried to use as many of the words as possible. This was our entry:

“Bulldog and I are a fixin to hike a fur piece yonder today and we was fellin a right might peaked this mornin’. So we lollygagged on over here to the Fox Diner for some vittles. We took a gander at the menu and we was plumb impressed! After we ordered, Bulldog started yarnin’ a story from his book-read past. The vittles arrived, he was still a yarnin’ away, and I was hungry so I asked him, “Have you et yet?” He said, “Naw.” “Well then, Hesh up and fetch the salt and pepper.” So we had us a mighty purty tasty breakfast and are a lookin to head North over the next holler. You’ns here at the Fox Diner have smack- dab what a thru-hiker is a lookin fer in these parts. Thankee! – Aqua & Bull”

Bulldog headed out of town before me. I got a ride back to the trail with a fella named Dave and his wife who were going into town and turned around to take me back out of town! I’m wishing now I could have spent more time talking with them. Good vibes.

Not too much to speak of about today’s hike. Bulldog‘s here, along with, for the first time, Fireball, Solophile and her dog Micah. Excellent Folks, as usual.

Aquaholic

June 14 - Front Royal, VA (Day 87 – milepoint 940.6)

Long day yesterday but felt good this morning and made the 3 miles to VA522 in less than an hour. Walked through a lot of tall grass and at one point I looked back to see a thick cloud of pollen floating behind me.

One of my few allergies, pollen, and today, I experienced my worst-ever reaction to it. Sneezing, runny, itchy nose, itchy eyes. I learned today not to rub my eyes after such exposure. I got a ride into town and by the time I arrived at the P.O., my eyes were severely swollen and getting worse. So I sat outside the P.O. sniffling and blowing and sneezing and trying to clear my eyes. I was temporarily blinded by fluids that were occupying the small space left between my eyelids, but I eventually was able to clear them enough to go inside and get my mail. The people inside the PO probably thought I was just crying…a lot.

Went into a pharmacy across the street for some allergy medicine and then met Bulldog for lunch at a Mexican Restaurant. Muy Bueno! We pooled our cash and split a cheap hotel room. The allergy medicine knocked me out for most of the day. Humbled yet again.

-Aquaholic

June 13 - Tom Floyd Wayside (Day 86 – milepoint 937.5)

Ugh. Grunt. Spew. Gurgle. Bleh.

June 12 - Pass Mountain Hut (Day 85 – milepoint 913.8)

Interesting how I was the only visitor last night to a very full Big Meadows Campground who arrived and left on foot…

“You get to know things better when they go by slow,” don’cha know?

Left early and cranked the eight miles to Skyland Lodge, arriving just before the 10:30 breakfast deadline. Thick French Toast with Mountain Blackberry syrup!

Leisurely meandered the next nine miles listening to classical music on NPR. Rain in the afternoon and I was able to find shelter in a picnic area where I “Yogi’d” cookies from some German tourists. Decided to move on in the rain, but as I approached Mary’s Rock, a popular overlook along Skyline Drive, the skies cleared and I had the entire overlook area to myself watching the clouds rising and falling, forming and deforming. Watched a red-tail hawk make a HIGH SPEED dive into the trees for dinner, and a small airplane floated by at eye level.

Enjoyed a Mountain Blackberry Ice Cream Sundae at the Panorama Wayside at Thornton Gap, where Bulldog showed up with “The Donner Party,” friends of Ren and Stimpy, day-hiking in the park. They gave Bulldog a huge slab of heavily sauced BBQ Ribs which he carried in foil up to the hut here. We prepared a bed of hot coals and threw on the ribs, I made some noodles to compliment, and we played catch with my NERF football and whistled happy tunes while the meat cooked.

Sloppily satisfied and looking forward to my morning rendevous with Privy, wonderful Privy.

-Aquaholic

June 11 - Big Meadow Campground (Day 84 – milepoint 895.0)

Made a stop around noon at Lewis Mountain Campground for some ice cream. Lunch and ice cream are all-day affairs…

Pleasant day for walking in the woods. Saw a herd of wild turkeys and then two minutes later, passed within 3-4 feet of a doe and her fawn, less than a week old, legs still wobbly.

Right now, I’m in the middle of a crowded campground. This is new.

The $14 camping fee I decided not to pay. A tinge of guilt, but since I pick up trash as I walk the trail, the Park Service is getting a pretty good deal on a custodian. (That’s my rationalization anyway. The truth is I’m out of cash…and I’m totally stuffed from dinner…and I don’t feel like walking 4 miles to the next shelter … so there you go, come get me…if you can find me.)

-Aquaholic

June 10 – South River Picnic Area (Day 83 – milepoint 880.8)

My fever broke in the middle of the night. Not too comfy laying in a pool of sweat in my sleeping bag, but happy it had passed.

I’ve been hiking the last 2 days with 65-year-old, Okie, from Tulsa. A year ago he weighed over 300 lbs, sold his insurance claims business and started getting ready for the AT. He bought some exercise equipment, changed his diet, started losing weight, and showed up on Springer Mountain on April 8 having never backpacked a day in his life. Now, at around 200 lbs. (and dropping), he says he’s a changed man and feeling better than ever. As sick as I felt last night, he had me wanting to stay up and talk. Definitely one of my favorite people out here.

We had a good day today and I decided to move on another 6 miles this evening. (I miss Okie already.) As sick as I was last night, it is kind of neat to have been able to hike 20 miles today.

Feeling a little beat up, though, so I’ve decided to slow up and not do the 5-consecutive 20-mile days in order to get to the Front Royal (VA) post office by Saturday morning. That much pain doesn’t feel necessary. The P.O. will be open Monday, and I’ll be there, two weeks behind schedule bearing the load of a comfortable smile.

I was, however, rewarded for today’s extra miles. A local couple, K-Ron and Bonnie (or Barbara?), drove up Skyline Drive from their home for an evening picnic. We shared a couple of picnic tables and talked until dark about traveling, our families, and our lives in general. Very nice folks. They left me with a bag of food – some crispy apples, cookies, chips and rice krispie treats. Saw a bear this morning and some wild dogs this evening. Far more concerned about the wild dogs than bears.

-Aquaholic