July 21 - RPH Shelter (Day 124 – milepoint 1401.9)

Up early for breakfast with Father Fred and eventually got to walking. Not much to say about hiking today except that I sweat a lot.

Highlight of the day was arriving at the shelter to see Footprints and Yote (Footprints and I haven’t seen each other since Erwin, TN) and then to meet Good Deal, a local Angel and student at Duquesne University in Pittsburgh. He took Zen Pig, Meant2B and I to a pizza place/deli and offered good conversation about hiking and music, among other things. A nice, unexpected encounter.

I spoke with Achilles this morning, who has been spending a few days off the trail at his folks’ home in Rye, NY. I’ll be meeting him tomorrow at NY-55 and he’s planned a little side trip for us to venture into NYC – the concrete wilderness…

Aquaholic

July 20 - Graymoor Friary (Day 123 – milepoint 1383.3)

I had two awesome hiking partners today: Billy (13) and Danny (11).

Christine and Aunt Dot dropped us off at the zoo (appropriately) where we started our seven-mile day. The AT goes right through the zoo so we saw lots of plants and animals and hit the lowest point on the AT at 126 feet above sea level. Crossed Bear Mountain Bridge over the Hudson River and made the climb to Anthony’s Nose which gave us an excellent view of the river and Bear Mountain. I went packless today as Billy and Danny each carried day packs with leftover pizza, snacks, and water. I must confess that they out-hiked me, making numerous stops to scramble over rocks and climb hills. Can’t wait to be able to join them someday on their personal adventures.

I asked Aunt Dot for permission to take them to Maine with me, but she has this random thing about school. Hmph. A couple of photos, a warm goodbye, and I walked on the half-mile or so to the Graymoor Friary. Got a little lost and found myself at the convent down the hill. A couple of kind nuns pointed me in the right direction to this beautiful facility. I was greeted by Father Fred, who showed me around and to my room.

Joined by Saint, the Merry Slav, Meant2B, and Zen Pig. This place is a bit spooky at night and I’m trying to keep my thoughts pure.

Aquaholic

July 19 - Bear Mountain State Park (Day 122 – milepoint 1376.8)

I was awakened in the wee hours last night by a bright light in my eyes, also known as a police officer’s flashlight. He informed me that I was a liability, technically trespassing after park hours, and I had to leave. He kindly offered to “transport” me to the Bear Mountain Inn where I could pay $89 for a room, but I kindly declined and began packing up.

“Where will you go?” he asked.

“I’ll just hike a ways and find a flat spot in the woods along the trail somewhere.”

“In the woods? Are you one of those thru-hikers?”

“Yes, sir.”

“You people are crazy,” he said, as he returned to his car shaking his head.

“Crazy to some, for sure,” I thought to myself, “who don’t know what they’re missing.”

I ended up finding a much better spot actually, much more comfortable, and slept soundly ’til morning. Funny how things work
out.

Cooler and less humid today which enabled me to see the New York City skyline from the top of West Mountain. A unique and impressive sight, to say the least. Entering Bear Mountain State Park I was quickly reminded that today was Saturday. What an unbelievable mass of people! Chaos, from my point of view. Put my headphones on, turned up the volume, and weaved my way through the multi-cultural populous to the zoo entrance, where I removed my boots and relaxed for a while.

Aunt Dot, Billy, Danny, and surprise, cousin Christine arrived and rescued me from the masses, smell and all. Then, as if they knew just what a thru-hiker needs after a tough, hot week of hiking, we checked into a Holiday Inn with a pool and a hot tub. Long shower, dinner, pay per view movie and pizza.

Looking forward to taking young Billy and younger Danny for a little hike tomorrow.

Aquaholic

July 18 - Lake Tiorati, Harriman State Park (Day 121 – milepoint 1364.1)

Got an early start and cruised the 5.5 miles to West Mombasha Road where I joined Harmony and the Merry Slav at Pappa’s Deli.

Today’s special: Buy one sub, get the second free!

We each ordered the special and Harmony inquired about the pizza. “It’s 9:30 in the morning,” declared the girl behind the counter, “don’t you guys have any sense of time?”

“Yes ma’am, we do,” replied the Merry Slav, “and right now I am sensing that it is time for us to eat!”

With a feisty East Coast attitude, she informed us that the pizza oven doesn’t get fired up until 5 p.m. and she made us our subs without further fuss. I saved what was left of my second sub for later and got back to hiking.

After an hour or so, I ran into Devin and Small World enjoying a hot afternoon siesta. I plopped down and we shot the breeze for a while before I continued on into Harriman State Park. Hope to see them again soon.

Encountered some Trail Magic from a man named Roger Johnson who lives nearby and works for CampMor. He had a cooler full of soda, apples and oranges, and Reese’s Peanut Butter Cups…

My plan was to stop at Lake Tiorati Circle for water and then move on but a downpour of rain forced me to seek cover from the lightning. I found a couple of picnic tables under a pavilion and decided to call it a day. “It’s a day!”

As the rain let up, I witnessed the largest, most amazing, colorful, vivid, double rainbow I have ever seen. Big WOW.

A late night swim under a full moon has me feeling relatively clean and comfortable. I get to see my Aunt Dorothy and cousins Billy and Danny tomorrow at Bear Mountain.

Aquaholic

July 17 - Wildcat Shelter (Day 120 – milepoint 1348.6)

Erin and her father, Robert, showed up this morning and offered me a ride to the trailhead. We also picked up Boji at the Days inn on the way. Very gracious folks. Not a bad way to start the day.

Big climb out of Vernon on yet another ridiculously hot, humid day. Siesta at Wawayanda State Park and about a 2-1/2 hour nap, thank you. The next nine miles were brutal with no water and little shade.

I came upon a road 3 miles before the shelter, very dehydrated and somewhat delirious. Followed the sound of barking dogs into a small neighborhood searching for outside water spigots. Nothing. Finally, a man came out of his house to quiet his dog. I seized the opportunity and asked for some water. He invited me inside and I enjoyed a nice conversation with him and his wife between sloppy gulps, water dripping from my now bushy beard. They seemed amused. I was thankful and the Mrs. handed me a peach and a plum for the road.

Made it to the shelter without further incident and have been drinking since I arrived. Joined by Merry Star, Boji, Meant2B, and Harmony.

Aquaholic

July 16 - Vernon, NJ; Fire Station (Day 119 – milepoint 1331.2)

Had a great night’s sleep and felt revived this morning. Stopped at the Post Office to pick up a letter from a fellow thru-hiker and, much to my surprise, a letter from Patty Wilkins, the wonderfully “crazy” woman from Atlanta who transcribes my website entries. How she knew I was stopping in Unionville I will never know, but I’m glad she did.

Stopped in at a local Deli for a couple of sandwiches and some fruit. Is there any better snack than blueberries? I think not.

The road out of town passes by the Minisinks Rubber Company. Curious, I dropped my pack and, after asking around, found Jim the manager, who gave me a tour and showed me how rubber is made. I’m glad I stopped.

Another very hot, humid day but with an unfortunate twist – little to no shade through open fields and along roads. The short 12.5 mile day made it more tolerable. I eventually made it to NJ-94 and caught a ride into Vernon with a couple of cool girls in a topless Jeep (just the Jeep, unfortunately), and I thoroughly enjoyed the wind beating on my face.

In town ran into Big Bird, Geo, Aunt Marty, Pixie, Just Dave, Otter, and Wrangler at the P.O. They were all waiting for Big Bird’s Mom and brother to pick them up for a day off at Big Bird’s childhood home not far away. They also raved about some Trail Magic they encountered yesterday. A family took all seven of them from High Point State Park, put them up for the night and fed them a big dinner and breakfast. I’m feeling a little trail-magic-envy, but I can’t complain.

I was given a ride to the Fire Dept Pavilion by Erin Kurshmer, whose family is involved in maintaining the Trail in the area. Very friendly. Says her father might thru-hike someday and hopes he encounters a lot of kindness along his journey. “One hand feeds the other,” she said. If that is so, he’s in for a good experience.

Aquaholic

July 15 – Unionville, NY – Back Track Inn (Day 118 – milepoint 1318.6)

Possibly my toughest day on the Trail so far. I didn’t sleep at all last night as mosquitoes buzzed my ears and ate me alive all night. A slap in the face for sending my tent home.

Packed up and started walking well before sunrise and found a small fire tower a few miles along where I climbed up to a small platform and napped for a half hour. Nice breeze kept the mosquitoes off.

Very rocky terrain put a lot of stress on my already tired ankles, and the rising heat and humidity beat down on my tired body. Stumbled into High Point State Park Headquarters where I found a bathroom, placed my head in a sink and ran the cold water for a while. Had some lunch and then took a 3-hour nap under a red maple tree next to a frog pond. Went the next eight miles drinking massive amounts of water, sweating profusely, my shirt and shorts dripping as if I had just dove into a lake fully clothed.

I arrived alive though. This “hostel” at the Back Track Inn is no more than an old storage room with four supply shelves converted to bunks. Strangely acceptable. The Inn has a bar and a nice bartender who set me up with a shower and a really fat cheeseburger. I think she felt sorry for me.

I’m joined by Boji (50′s, Omaha), who I haven’t seen since the Smokies, and Tony (40′s, Plymouth, Mass), a southbound section hiker who gave us the rest of his pizza!

I learned it was 105 degrees today. I haven’t peed since yesterday afternoon.

Aquaholic

July 14 - Glen Anderson Shelter (Day 117 – milepoint 1298.6)

Mid 90′s today and very humid. Took a siesta at Washington’s Bakery where I had some fresh fruit and a cold orange juice. At the counter, I asked the girl about their cinnamon rolls. She said, “Well, we don’t sell them individually, you have to get them in a dozen or in dozen quantities.”

“Great, a dozen sounds good,” I replied.

She smiled and nodded as if to say, “Right, thru-hiker.”

Made a phone call home to check up on things and found out that a high school friend died in a car accident. What a blow. Haven’t seen him in a couple of years but his face is clear in my mind. Thinking of his family…

Who knows, maybe I’ll be next. So I continue to live as thoughtfully and heartfully as I can, intent to learn and experience as much as possible, spending quality time with friends and making new ones along the way… What is more important?

Aquaholic

July 13 - Catfish Fire Tower (Day 116 – milepoint 1279.0)

Attended the church service this morning to see how Presbyterians do it. A female pastor made it a unique experience, for which I was grateful, but Mother Nature still speaks my language a little more clearly.

Breakfast at the Diner with Puff, Cosmo, Grasshopper, Woolybooger, and Churchmouse. Midday nap, then got my things packed up and headed out late afternoon. Very hot and after 4 miles of climbing I was lucky to come upon the glacially-formed Sunfish Pond, where a swim was unavoidable.

Enjoyed conversation with a bunch of guys from New Jersey (Exit 135) who were curious about the concept of a thru-hike. It almost seemed like they didn’t believe me.

Continued on into the evening. Had a run-in with an angry copperhead and then somehow, got confused in the dark and walked right past the road to the Mohican camping area where I had planned to stay. I’ve ended up at Catfish Fire Tower about 2-3 miles beyond, and found a nice little spot on the fourth tier. Nice breeze and a panoramic view. Looking forward to seeing the sunrise.

Aquaholic

July 12 - Delaware Water Gap, PA (Day 115 – milepoint 1267.0)

Joined a dozen other thru-hikers in a shuttle to Pack Shack Outfitters in nearby Stroudsburg to do some in-town chores. Of course, the bakery was “on the way.”

After everyone’s laundry was done, we all walked over to the Mall a mile away for food and people-watching. Saw a movie – Face Off.

Grocery then shuttle back to DWG. This evening, we all went over to the Ramada Inn lounge for spirits…and karaoke! Puff, Land Shark, Paka Bear, Baltimore Jack, Water Girl, Cosmo, Chewbacca, Spice, Wollybooger, and Grasshopper belting out some groovy and some less-than-groovy-but-spirited tunes.

The bar was supposed to close at midnight. We walked out with the bartender around 2:30 am. I think Paka Bear pissed himself.

Aquaholic