June 10 – South River Picnic Area (Day 83 – milepoint 880.8)

My fever broke in the middle of the night. Not too comfy laying in a pool of sweat in my sleeping bag, but happy it had passed.

I’ve been hiking the last 2 days with 65-year-old, Okie, from Tulsa. A year ago he weighed over 300 lbs, sold his insurance claims business and started getting ready for the AT. He bought some exercise equipment, changed his diet, started losing weight, and showed up on Springer Mountain on April 8 having never backpacked a day in his life. Now, at around 200 lbs. (and dropping), he says he’s a changed man and feeling better than ever. As sick as I felt last night, he had me wanting to stay up and talk. Definitely one of my favorite people out here.

We had a good day today and I decided to move on another 6 miles this evening. (I miss Okie already.) As sick as I was last night, it is kind of neat to have been able to hike 20 miles today.

Feeling a little beat up, though, so I’ve decided to slow up and not do the 5-consecutive 20-mile days in order to get to the Front Royal (VA) post office by Saturday morning. That much pain doesn’t feel necessary. The P.O. will be open Monday, and I’ll be there, two weeks behind schedule bearing the load of a comfortable smile.

I was, however, rewarded for today’s extra miles. A local couple, K-Ron and Bonnie (or Barbara?), drove up Skyline Drive from their home for an evening picnic. We shared a couple of picnic tables and talked until dark about traveling, our families, and our lives in general. Very nice folks. They left me with a bag of food – some crispy apples, cookies, chips and rice krispie treats. Saw a bear this morning and some wild dogs this evening. Far more concerned about the wild dogs than bears.

-Aquaholic

June 9 – Loft Mountain Campground (Day 82 – milepoint 860.3)

Feeling a little like hell. Arrived here at the Loft Mountain Campground with a fever. Not sure where it came from. A half gallon of Gatorade helped a little. Sucks to be sick when you’re supposed to be invincible.

-Aquaholic

June 8 – Calf Mountain Shelter (Day 81 – milepoint 840.0)

Felt like I slept in this morning until I got up and found that it was only 7:30. The days are getting longer.

Aunt Marty, Pixie, Little Toe, and I set out for breakfast at Weasies Diner in Waynesboro. Just as we were leaving our campsite, we were greeted by Lecher Boyd, a local, and frequent AT section hiker. He drove us to an ATM and then to Weasies. I had the pleasure of sitting up front and enjoying the conversation.

I wasn’t hungry, but ate anyway, and didn’t feel at all bad about it.

After breakfast, we walked across town back to our tents and met a fisherman who gave us a ride to the St. James Baptist Church.

Rusty arrived when we did with his van full of hikers and we were all glad to see each other again, after only a day. As we sat outside the church, it soon became evident that Rusty is it’s only white member…but a very special one. We were welcomed warmly with hugs and handshakes and we had the opportunity to be social for a bit before the service started.

Someone asked an older woman about how long the service usually lasts, and with feeling, she replied, “Honey, we don’t go home ’til the Good Lord says it’s time, Hallelujah!”

Three hours later, we were all hugging every not-so-stranger in the building. The music is still echoing inside me and my hands feel bruised form 3 hours of clapping. Now there’s a church I can see going to every Sunday!

After the service, they invited us to join them in celebrating the Church’s 80th Anniversary…by letting them feed us dinner.

And this long, strange trip just keeps getting better. Sometimes in life it feels like the world is conspiring against you, but out here the conspiracies just seem to always be in your favor.

More hearty-hugs and thank yous after dinner and we headed back to the YMCA. I packed up and made a quick stop into the Y for a shower. Got to chatting with a local fella, Jeff, who works for the city of Waynesboro, and he offered me a ride up to Rockfish Gap. It was nice not to have to worry about the hitch.

Had to register for a Shenandoah National Park Permit for camping and hit the Trail at around 5 p.m. with a new toy on my pack – a NERF football. Soon ran into Little Toe and we walked into a pleasant evening, a short 7 miles to this shelter on Calf Mountain. It’s good to be on the move again.

-Aquaholic

June 7, 1997 (Day 80 – milepoint 833.1 -Rockfish Gap; Waynesboro, VA)

Rusty drove Aunt Marty, Pixie, and I into town. (Earth Surfer and Flash began their attempt to hitchhike to Florida for a wedding. Hopefully, they’ll catch up in a few weeks.) Rusty informed us that he would be taking some hikers to church with him tomorrow and invited us to join them if we were still in town. Although I’m not a churchgoer, it sounds interesting and we’ve decided to stick around for it.

Laundry, post office, grocery, telephone, and even saw a movie. Con Air. A good “guy-movie,” and I just happen to be a good guy.

Dinner at Weasies Diner with Pixie and Aunt Marty, and we were joined by a local couple, Jeff and Tina, who we met outside the PO this morning. Jeff is planning a thru-hike and we enjoyed answering questions and telling a few stories. I was reminded of how I felt when planning for my trip. I’m excited for Jeff, knowing what lies ahead for him.

Happy 28th Wedding Anniversary to Mom and Dad!

Aquaholic

June 6, 1997 (Day 79 – milepoint 833.1 -Hard Time Hollow)

Slackpacked from Rockfish Gap (mile 833. 1) back to the Hollow. It was a cold today – upper 40′s maybe, and rainy. When I got back, I sat next to the wood stove and shivered for about an hour. Weird. I think I was more exhausted than cold.

There’s a stomach flu going around and a few folks here have it. I feel OK so far and hope to avoid it. Big Bird and Little Toe showed up today, haven’t seen them since Hot Springs, NC, 560 miles ago…

Some new faces: Hidalgo, Peggy-0, Stargazer, and a few others. All seem interesting, which is par for the course.

Evening Hot Tub.

Aquaholic

June 5, 1997 (Day 78 – milepoint 815. 1 -Hard Time Hollow)

Rusty made pancakes for breakfast. A lot of pancakes! There’s about 15 hikers here now, chilling out. We went into town for dinner groceries and took another day off. I used to think that taking a day off in town was opportunity to relax. I’ve realized now that it’s far from relaxation: laundry, groceries, post office, telephone, etc. Busy…

At the Hollow, there are no phones, no TVs, no computers. Just books, couches, lots of grass, a spring fed bathtub, wood fire sauna and hot tub, and all the time in a day. A common scene is a room full of folks, some talking, some reading, some staring off into space. Wood burning stove. Very comfy.

The Swiss family and I made dinner for everyone. Mexican enchiladas.

Aquaholic

June 4, 1997 (Day 77 – milepoint 815.1 -Hard Time Hollow)

Day off. Sun shined all day. Nap. We steamed in the wood-fire sauna this evening.

Aquaholic

June 3, 1997 (Day 76 – milepoint 815.1 -Rusty’s Hard Time Hollow)

Cold, foggy morning. Couple of streams today that were way too beautiful to photograph.

Still hiking with the Swiss Family and Puff. We “blue-blazed” (took an alternate, non-AT trail) on the Mau Har Trail, which paralleled a creek with waterfalls and swimming holes. By doing this, we avoided a 3,000 foot climb over Three Ridges Mountain and about 4 extra miles. The thick fog would have offered no views on top so I think the creek walk was the more rewarding choice.

We made it to the Blue Ridge Parkway crossing and walked the road south for over a mile and arrived here at Rusty’s Hard Time Hollow, possibly the most heralded stop along the trail. No electricity. No running water. Just everything you need. It is difficult to explain this place. You just have to walk here and experience it. You’re not welcome if you arrive any other way. “Thru-hikers only”, Rusty says, “and once you’re welcomed, you’re always welcome.” Some people end their thru hike here, for different reasons. Most everyone comes back. I’ll stay for a couple of days. Rusty made us hamburgers for dinner.

Aquaholic

July 2, 1997 (Day 75 – milepoint 801.4 – The Priest Shelter)

After a restful night’s sleep, we made a call to Ed and Maryann Williams, popular Trail Angels in the area, and Ed loaded us into his van and hauled us back up to Hog Camp Gap. Damp and foggy, but no rain today. Shoes still squishy and waterlogged from yesterday.

A good day for the nose. Pixie saw two black bears.
Brain wasn’t very active today.

Aquaholic

June 1, 1997 (Day 74 – milepoint 786.9 – Buena Vista Motel)

What a day!

Punchbowl Shelter was five-full last night with another eight folks tenting next to the frog pond. Swiss Family Robinson (Earth Surfer, Pixie, Flash, and Aunt Marty), Puff, Ren & Stimpy, Pockets, Walkie Talkie, Jen (a southbounder in her 9th month on the Trail) and two section hikers from Florida – all sharing the space last night.

We all set out in pouring rain this morning and walked through a 4.5 acre virgin forest. Oldest tree: 300+ year old white pine. Fattest tree: 45 inch diameter white oak. I wonder what it was like when the virgin forest was 4.5 MILLION acres? I use way too much paper.

We arrived at the Lynchburg Dam and Reservoir and met Aubrey Taylor, a well known Trail Angel in the area, who gave me a Dr. Pepper and a smile in the still pouring rain.

From left: Aubrey Taylor, Ren, Puff, Stimpy, Flash, Pixie, Earth Surfer, Aunt Marty

Lunch at Brown Mountain Shelter where I tried a little experiment. I melted some STARBURST candy in my boiling water to add sweetness to my oatmeal and tea. It worked well.

The trail crossed Rte 60 and there was Aubrey Taylor again with sodas and beer. The rain had stopped temporarily and we all relaxed on the grass and enjoyed Aubrey’s company. He offered us the option to slackpack over Bald Knob and Cold Mountain – 7 miles with a 3,000 foot climb! We accepted. Flash, Pixie, Earth Surfer, Puff, and I headed out ahead of Aunt Marty, Ren & Stimpy, and we flew up in a downpour of rain. We reached the summit, got naked and ran around on the open bald for awhile until we realized why they call it Cold Mountain.

Losing our minds atop Cold Mountain

We made our way down to Hog Camp Gap where we planned to camp for the night. Aubrey was there with eight soaking wet backpacks in the back of his truck. Ever the Angel, he offered to take us into town to a motel. We happily accepted. The initial stages of hypothermia were setting in as we waited for Ren & Stimpy, so Pixie and Aunt Marty hopped into the front of the truck to get warm and Flash, Earth Surfer, Puff, and I started walking down the road to keep the blood flowing. They picked us up a couple of miles down and we hopped in the back of Aubrey’s truck with Ren & Stimpy, huddled close for warmth. To keep our minds occupied during the 70-minute ride, I recited Arlo Guthrie’s “Alice’s Restaurant” in full orchestration and five-part harmony.

Long, cold, wet ride from Hog Camp Gap to town in the back of Aubrey's truck...

We arrived at the “Bee-yoo-nuh” Vista Motel/Restaurant, paid $10 each for rooms and caught showers. We were all happy to be dry and warm.

Dinner at the Restaurant. When the waitress came for our dessert orders we all made the usual assorted ice cream combo selections, except for Ren. He opened the menu and declared, “For dessert, I’ll have another Bacon Double Cheeseburger with Onion Rings!”

Aquaholic